Beyond Assyrtiko, Greek Whites Reach for Distinction


Our favorite was the 2017 Hoof & Lur from Troupis made from moschofilero grapes grown in Mantinia. Moschofilero, like roditis, is a pink-hued white grape, and it can sometimes make wines like this one that might appear to be rosés. Regardless of the tinge, this was a lively, balanced, deliciously herbal wine with citrus flavors.

Tasting Notes: Greek Whites
Best Value: ★★★ Troupis Hoof & Lur Mantinia Moschofilero 2017 $20
A touch pink. Lively, refreshing, harmonious and profoundly, deliciously herbal. (DNS Wines, San Francisco)
★★1/2 Manolis Garalis Terra Ambera Lemnos Muscat of Alexandria 2017 $22
Perfumed and bountifully floral, with balanced, distinctive flavors. (Eklektikon, Wilmington, Del.)
★★1/2 Giannis Stilianou Theon Dora Crete 2016 $24
Crisp and fresh, with cool mint and citrus flavors. (Eklektikon)
★★1/2 Gai’a Nemea Notios 2017 $15
Balanced and clean, with fresh flavors of citrus, herbs and tropical fruits. (Winebow, New York)
★★1/2 Antonopoulos Achaia Malagouzia 2017 $24
Tangy and fresh, with flavors of herbs, citrus and apple. (Verity Wine Partners, New York)
★★1/2 Zafeirakis Tyrnavos Malagousia 2016 $19

Balanced and zesty, with flavors of citrus, herbs and peaches. (DNS Wines)
★★1/2 Orealios Gaea Robola of Cephalonia 2017 $11
Bright and succulent, with flavors of herbs and tropical fruits. (Verity Wine Partners)
★★1/2 Kouros Patras Roditis 2016 $11
Fresh and distinctive, with savory herbal and earthy mineral flavors. (Nestor Imports, Brooklyn, N.Y.)
★★ Nasiakos Mantinia Moschofilero 2015 $17
Earthy flavors of citrus, flowers and tropical fruits. (Stellar Importing, Astoria, N.Y.)
★★ Sclavos Vino di Sasso Robola of Cephalonia 2015 $24
Rich, refreshing and nicely textured. (DNS Wines)


by Eric Asimov
Aug 2, 2018


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